Three pumps, three jobs

When water stands more than a couple of inches deep, a pump does the heavy lifting. The small utility pump that sits in a bucket is the most common type: it sinks to the floor, pushes water out through a garden-style hose and quits when the water level drops below its intake, often leaving about a quarter inch behind. A trash pump has a wider intake and tolerates grit, leaves and silt, which matters when water entered through a window well carrying soil. A transfer pump sits above the water and pulls it through a suction hose, which suits a crawlspace or a pit where a larger pump will not fit.

None of these removes the final film of water. That last layer is dealt with by vacuum, squeegee or an extraction wand, which is why pumping is usually the first stage and not the whole job.

Submersible versus surface pump

Both can empty a basement; they differ in where they sit and what they tolerate.

Submersible

  • Sits in the water, no priming needed
  • Leaves a thin layer when it loses suction
  • Cord and plug must be kept clear of the water line
  • Handy for stairwells and low corners

Surface or transfer

  • Stays above the water on a dry shelf or step
  • Needs a primed suction hose that holds air-tight
  • Can drain closer to the floor with a flat suction strainer
  • Better for crawlspaces and narrow openings

Setting up a pump run

  1. Kill the power first.Pump cords are fine, but a flooded outlet strip or an energized panel is not. Confirm the circuits near the water are off or that the pump runs from a dry, protected outlet on a ground fault device.
  2. Plan the discharge.Run the hose to a spot well away from the foundation, downhill from the house, and not onto a neighbor's property. Dumping next to the wall sends the water straight back into the window well.
  3. Lower the pump gradually.Set it on a brick or flat board so debris does not clog the intake, and watch the first few minutes for hose kinks or backflow.
  4. Check the hose slope.A long run up a stair and out a door raises the head the pump must beat. A shorter, flatter route moves more water per minute.

When water keeps returning

If the level rises again after you pump, the source is still active. That could be groundwater pushing through a floor crack after heavy rain, a window well that is full, or a municipal line backing up. Wheat Ridge sits near Clear Creek and Lena Gulch, and after saturated ground the pump may be the only thing holding the level down until the surrounding soil drains. At that point the question stops being about equipment and becomes about finding and slowing the inflow.

Do not pump a basement dry too fast when the ground outside is saturated. A sudden drop in interior water pressure against basement walls can stress them. Removing roughly a third of the depth at a time and pausing is a conservative habit.

Common questions

How long does a small pump take to empty a basement?

It depends on the volume, the hose length and the lift. A modest utility pump may need hours for a deep room, and flow drops as the hose runs longer or rises up stairs.

Can I run a pump from an extension cord?

Use a heavy-duty outdoor cord, keep connections off the wet floor and plug into a protected circuit. If you are unsure about the electrical state of the room, do not enter the water.

General information for Wheat Ridge, not a quote or professional advice. In an emergency, call 911.